Once known as the Alcatraz of Malaysia, Pulau Jerejak has been transformed into a haven for holiday-goers.

BACK in the 1960s to the early part of 90s, if someone told you “if you break the law, you will be sent to Pulau Jerejak”, that was considered a dire warning or a threat.

These days, though, if you hear the same words, you can reply “the pleasure is all mine”.

Gone are the days when Pulau Jerejak was known as the island for criminals, tuberculosis and leprosy patients.

The Jerejak Rehabilitation Centre was also used till 1993 to house detainees with a drug addiction.

Hence, for many years, the island was stained with a reputation that made all residents of decent background shun it. However, a few years ago, Jerejak was given a new lease of life when a holiday resort and spa, the Jerejak Rainforest Resort, was built on a scenic side of the 362-hectare island.

Prison Break

The name Jerejak was given by fishermen who lived there before it gained its reputation as the country’s “Alcatraz”.

Because of its long years of isolation, the 4,000-year-old coastal forest is rich with numerous flora species. Mangrove swamps are a common sight on the north side where the old prison was located. There are no longer any convicts there. The last batch left for the Simpang Ranggam Prison in Johor in August 1993.

Wild Encounters

Indigenous residents like monitor lizards and wild monkeys still consider Jerejak home. If you come across a seven-foot monitor lizard slithering across your path, do not be alarmed. It is probably just going out for lunch.

However, for the faint-hearted, a family of monkeys, especially when led by a grandaddy with a grey beard, should be treated with respect.

Our short stroll along a seldom trodden path along a rarely visited coastline was interrupted by a primate family. The grey bearded head of the primate stopped, stared and challenged us with a few seemingly threatening grunts.

Nature And Adventure

The Jerejak Rainforest Resort is a sight to behold. Its manicured lawns are almost pristine. The sun-kissed beach and its white sands look desolate but otherwise very inviting to tired city folks.

For RM35, you are entitled to a return trip to Pulau Jerejak, with a buffet lunch thrown in at the resort. The lunch alone is worth the fare.

Visitors can eat to their heart’s content but don’t be a glutton. The dessert, with tea, coffee, ice-kacang and cendol, are immensely satisfying especially when the sea view is so soothing.

Near the bridge is an area for flying fox activity — just imagine sliding along an almost vertical rope strung across what remains of the dam.

History buffs may want to check the Prison Trail that runs 3km from the resort. The scenic route through lush jungle leads to what’s left of the old, concrete prison. There’s a bunker with a very deep hole — it was used by the British to “stash rebels” who fought the colonialists. Guide Mohd Sadiq Mansor said the hole is about the height of a two-storey building!

Other trails include the Balqis Bike Trail — a rugged undulating trail to the “wilder” and uninhabited side of the island, and the Dipterocarp Trail flanked by giant meranti, keruing and other hardy trees with lush canopies that provide shade in the forest.

Tranquil Getaway

On the hilly slopes, there are chalets for families, honeymooners and foreign guests and little huts for health spa aficionados, near an infinity pool.

Although there’s a big Selamat Datang (welcome) sign at the Sungai Nibong Pulau Jerejak jetty where the ferry is anchored, you are advised not to bring durians or your pets to the island.

Fishing is not allowed at the jetty but you can do so on Jerejak. There are ferry services at two-hour intervals from the island and the Sungai Nibong jetty. The ferry ride is only about 10 minutes.

A Russian naval ship was sunk near the island. And you can still see the ceremonial cemetery dedicated to the fallen Russian sailors.

Regular visitors to Penang who think they have seen it all, may want to consider Pulau Jerejak on their next visit.

Growing up on the island

JALIL Said fidgeted with his water bottle. It was apparent that the 52-year-old, fondly known as Pak Jalil, was shy and uncomfortable when recalling his childhood days on Pulau Jerejak.

Born and bred there, the gardener at Jerejak Rainforest Resort recalled seeing boats landing at the jetty to unload prisoners.

A little boy then, he understood little of what was going on. He would watch the prisoners being marched from the jetty till they were out of sight. Often, this happened when he was taking boat rides to the Sir Edwards Primary School where he studied up to Standard Six.

He is one of six siblings and his family lived at the Public Works Department staff quarters. His late father, Said Ahmad, worked with the PWD on the island.

Apart from prisoners, Pak Jalil said that pilgrims who had just returned from Mecca and were suspected of contracting tuberculosis were quarantined there too. It was also a center for those suffering from leprosy.

He shuddered at the memory of the leprosy patients. “There were those without a nose and fingers or had frightening looking limbs,” he said.

He would hear them cry and groan, and stories of suicide were quite common. There are mass graves here too, he said.

At school, pupils were given liquid fish oil by the hospital. “It tasted so awful but we had to swallow it daily during assembly as the teachers said it’d make us strong,” he said, adding that the children were X-rayed every month to ensure that they were free of the contagious disease.

The echoes of the past still ring true for Pak Jalil as he goes about tending the gardens of the resort.

“It’s so peaceful now…” he said softly, with his eyes focused in the distance.

Source: http://travel.nst.com.my/

Location, Driving Direction and Map of Pulau Jerejak

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