Bako National Park has many faces. ALAN TEH LEAM SENG bravely walks into Kerangas, the land where paddy cannot grow.

THE heat is sweltering in Kampung Bako, the gateway to the Bako National Park at the tip of the Muara Tebas peninsula in Sarawak.

But it doesn’t bother me. In fact, I’m pleased that the clear sky will let me indulge in what I consider an adventure of a lifetime.

I’d heard so much about Bako and I’d been looking forward to the trip. There was not enough time to explore all of the 2,727-hectare site so I am to concentrate on the Kerangas Forest.

The Beauty of Bako National Park

“Kerangas Forest? What’s that?” I inquired when the suggestion was first made. Pictures of armies of red fire ants crawling all over came to mind as the name closely resembles kerengga, the Malay name for red ants.

To my relief, I learn that kerangas is an Iban word for “a place where paddy cannot grow” indicating its lack of soil fertility.

The Village

Kg Bako is just a few minutes walk from the bus drop off point. While waiting for the boat to the park, I nose around the village.

At the makeshift wooden shacks that line the narrow lane leading to the jetty, freshly caught marine as well as brackish fish and prawns are offered for sale. Huge white prawns cost only RM15 a kg, a price that’ll surely cause a small ‘riot’ in Kuala Lumpur.

Next to the jetty is Bako Seafood Restaurant which, locals tell me, serves heavenly chili crabs and butter prawns. Every evening, diners come from as far away as Kuching to sample its specialties.

Boat Ride

My boatman beckons. “Air mula surut,” he says, indicating that the tide has started to turn. As the boat glides effortlessly over the calm waters, I soak in the sights and smells around me.

Riverine homes slowly give way to lush green mangroves lining the riverbanks and small fishing crafts dot the horizon. After 20 minutes, we arrive at the Bako National Park Jetty in Telok Assam. After registering at the headquarters, the adventure begins.

Into The Forest

It’s a short climb to Kerengas Forest which is on an alleviated plain. The track is well laid out and signboards keep me on course. I take note of the change in vegetation as I climb higher. The dense tropical rainforest soon give way to sparse montane plants that are well adapted to cooler surroundings.

Then suddenly, the entire landscape changes. The air is cooler, the trees are mostly coniferous and the ground is covered with dried organic material. Guests are warned not to smoke or light matches here, as everything is as dry as tinder.

Despite the sparse vegetation, I could see a variety of pitcher plants that are well suited for infertile areas. These carnivorous plants trap insects and digesting them by secreting digestive enzymes before absorbing the digested juices. Thus they are able to thrive in nutrient-deficient soils and rocks. Other carnivorous plants include sundews and bladderworts.

Bako National Park Attractions

Another extraordinary feature of the Kerengas Forest is the ant plant that presents a special symbiosis between insects and plant. This relationship allows both organisms to thrive here. This plant is easy to spot as it has bulbous protrusions where ants make their home.

There are few animals as the lack of fruiting trees makes Kerengas Forest hostile to wildlife. But I manage to spot a proboscis monkey and several species of birds including hornbills, barbets and pitas. Park manager Saili Aban says the park is home to more than 190 species of birds.

On the way down, I feel a sense of satisfaction for having seen a rare side of Bako National Park. The park was gazetted as a protected area in 1957, making it Malaysia’s oldest national park. It’s currently under the jurisdiction of the Sarawak Forestry Corporation.

Visit Malaysia Year will be especially meaningful for the park, as it’ll be celebrating its golden anniversary, sparking off a well anticipated double celebration.

For more information, contact Sarawak Forestry Department Tel: 082-348 001, fax: +082-488 654, toll free line: 1-800-882 526, website: www.sarawakforestry.com, email: info@sarawakforestry.com. You may also call National Parks Booking Office, Kuching (Visitor Information Centre) Tel: 082-248 088 or fax: 082-248 087.

Suggested Tour and Itinerary for Bako National Park

Spend at least two days to fully appreciate the beauty of the park. Don’t be misled by its relatively small size (compared to other national parks) as Bako is home to most of Borneo’s diverse vegetation types. There are seven diverse natural habitats here — Beach Forest, Cliff Vegetation, Kerangas or Heath Forest, Mangrove Forest, Mixed Dipterocarp Forest, Peat Swamp Forest and Grassland.

Its extensive network of 18 jungle trails (including the Pa’ Amit Trail on Lakei Island) is color coded to guide visitors. The more adventurous can choose a full-day jungle hike or an overnight camping expedition. Day-trippers can check out the shorter trails close to the park’s headquarters.

Take a short boat ride to Pulau Lakei, the one and only island in the park to enjoy its serenity and natural beauty. You can stay overnight and enjoy the stunning sunsets overlooking the Santubong Range.

The Oldest National Park in Sarawak

At the top of the 160 flights of wooden steps is a warrior’s grave. Datuk Ibrahim, an early resident of the island, was said to have superhuman strength and could engrave Islamic ‘khat’ on rock faces with his fingers! People come from as far away as Brunei on an annual pilgrimage to the grave near Salamun Pool.

Wear comfortable clothes and proper footwear, as the trails can get muddy and slippery especially after a downpour. Bring lots of drinking water and some light snacks, as some trails are quite long. Outdoor cooking is not allowed. A good pair of binoculars and a handbook on the birds of Borneo is a must for birdwatchers.

The park is also home to five species of primates, namely the rare proboscis monkey, long-tailed macaque, silver leaf langur, the slow loris and tarsier. Other interesting animals seen are monitor lizards, plantain squirrels, bearded wild pigs (the largest mammal in the park), flying lemurs, civet cats and more than six species of bats.

Where To Stay

Accommodation includes chalets, lodges and hostels. There are two semi-detached lodges, each with four beds priced at RM25 per bed. There are also seven units of two-room chalets at RM150 a night. The cheapest accommodation of a hostel bed costs only RM15 per night. The camp site, with washroom facilities, can fit 180 campers at any one time.

Other facilities include the Kerangas Cafe, a barbecue area, 24-hour electricity supply and treated water supply, information centre and environmental education centre. There is a government clinic at Kg Bako.

Getting To Bako National Park

Petra Jaya Bus No. 6 from Kuching takes 40 minutes to arrive at Kg Bako. The earliest bus leaves Kuching at 6am and the last bus leaves Kg Bako at 5pm daily. Visitors must report at the Arrival Terminal near the jetty.

Chartered boats manned by the locals cost RM16 for a return journey and while a trip to Lakei Island costs RM25. Children pay half price and toddlers under 12 months are charged only 10 per cent of the fare.

Take A Tour

Several agents provide tours to Bako National Park. Some of them are:

CPH Travel Agencies (Sarawak) Sdn Bhd
Tel: 082-243 708/242 289
Email: cphtrvl@streamyx.com
Website: www.cphtravel.com

Borneo Interland Travel Sdn Bhd
Tel: 082-413 595/426 328
Email: bitravel@tm. net.my
Website: www.bitravel.com.my

Borneo Fairyland Travel & Tour Sdn Bhd
Tel: 082-420 194/420 195
Email: bftravel@tm. net.my
Website: www.borneofairyland.tripod.com

Source: http://travel.nst.com.my/

Map, Location and Driving Direction to Bako National Park:

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